The dogs begin to whimper.

I slept well, until 4:30 am when I started the blog update. The albergue in Roncesvalles is not to be missed. Amy would not give it as high of a review, as she as a mom is a very light sleeper. I as a bear, hibernate each night. Obeying Newton's first law I remain at rest. Disobeying Newton's first law I do so even when acted upon by an outside force. In comparison with large brevet overnights this place was near morgue-like quiet. Amy disagreed with me and did not sleep well due to across-the-room snoring etc. I never heard a thing. Clare has inherited my sleeping abilities.

Eventually we got up, repacked and headed out at 8am, into the dark! We used headlights for the first 5 km. We skipped the pilgrim breakfast after experiencing the pilgrim dinner. Unfortunately breakfast in small Spanish towns is enjoyed in the privacy of Spanish homes. Nothing was open in the first 3 towns. Morale began to sag. We hadn't even had a coffee!! I prayed to St James that the next town would have an open establishment serving food and coffee. Santiago did not disappoint. I could smell coffee before I even saw the place. It was less than 25 ft. off the Way. One proprietress adeptly catered to the caffeine deprived masses. We had café con leches with tortilla de potata. The cafés were so good that I had two more just to be sure. I confirmed their goodness. We reluctantly left the café and carried on. At least we now were able to speak.

We met John from Miami who is on his second Camino and searching for a property. He is planning to move here. I commented that I liked his yellow arrow pin in the back of his cap and he dug around in his bag and presented me with one. Camino magic!

The weather was cool and the forecast called for rain. The skies would occasionally spit on us and we would don the Goretex only to stop 10 minutes later and shed the rain gear. It felt like cycling. It never really rained. The course was much flatter but did include some slippery downhill sections. It's good to carry hiking poles on the Camino.  We walked through bucolic farmland, quiet hamlets and beautiful small villages. During another lag in morale we stopped at a two isle market and stocked up on chocolate.

Lunch was acquired at a butcher shop/grocery in Lubiri and consisted of an eclectic menu highlighted by gluten free crackers, laughing cow cheese wheel and yogurt.

The last three miles hurt. Our feet were aching. No blisters but after 27 km we were ready for a
shower and chair. We found our desired wishes at Albergue San Nicolas in Larrasoaña. It was a newer albergue but had hot showers and cold beer. We checked in. Soon the patio filled with pilgrims and lively chatter. It had a true feeling of shared community. More than a few guests were on their second Camino. Even though this was only our second day we felt a part of this tribe of traveling peregrinos.

The sun fell along with the temperature and we moved inside to dinner. A much nicer affair than the previous night and it even included some vegetables and a salad! I'm now racing to beat lights-out on my lower level bunk covered in bedbug-proof sheeting. Stage 3 tomorrow. I pray the dogs are up to it.