Unburden Yourselves

We attended the pilgrim's mass at 7 in Rabanal. The monks weren't chanting this evening because only one was in town. He was saying mass along with our Colombian friend Padrecito Freddy. In attendance was the French family except for the 5 month old and the mother who stayed behind at the albergue. The father and five children occupied a pew toward the back of the small chapel but then were invited into the choir seating to the side of the altar. The father was asked to do the readings in Spanish and he did them beautifully. The remainder of the mass was in English and during the homily we were reminded that tomorrow we would be visiting the Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the Camino where we should unburden ourselves of things that we were carrying but did not require. By tradition, pilgrims carry stones to this point and then unload those stones at the cross. There is quite a pile. I was carrying two.

We left mass in a light rain and made it back to the warmth of Albergue El Pilar. There was quite a gathering in the main room and a half dozen new peregrinos had rolled in. Including Jason, a mountain man from SW Virginia who loves Asheville and could serve as a double for Hagrid in the Harry Potter movies. This was the last night that the albergue bar would be open for the season so the owner was emptying the keg. Emptying it into pitchers that were being brought to the big table that we were all gathered around. We did our best to help out.

When we retired to our bunks the rain was lashing the building. It was supposed to rain all night. And it did. When I woke up it was still dark. I wanted to check on the election results but I had to go outside to get a signal. I texted my son Patrick. He delivered the devastating news. I felt sick, standing in the dark cold with strong, gusting winds. I went into the dining area to warm up by the fire and found the entire French family gathered around a small table eating chocolate sandwiches. I felt better immediately.

I really love the Avett Brothers. That's one that NC got right, TAB. Anyway in "Head Full of Doubt" they sing, "Your life doesn't change by the man that's elected". Amen! I decided that we had work to do. Time to get our game faces on. First on the agenda, climb a mountain.

The rain had stopped but the wind was on gale force and many of the mountain tops were hidden in the low lying clouds. Today's stage would take us to the highest point of the Camino at 1499 m. That is higher than our crossing of the Pyrenees which is now closed until the Spring. In fact both crossings from St Jean Pied du Port are now closed. A Spanish pilgrim died this week trying to cross the lower alternate route. Now that alternate lower route is not even an option.

The storm that raged as we slept erased all remnants of snow at the Cruz de Ferro. The huge pile of stones remained and we added ours.

There is a road that parallels the Camino coming down from the cross and our skateboarding friends were planning on a quick trip down. They had even sent their bags on by car transport so the could shred unencumbered by heavy backpacks. We were worried for their safety but they said not to. We saw them later that day at the bottom looking quite happy and intact. As we made our way down from the top the skies brightened and the sun even peeked out. What started as cold, dark and dreary turned into a glorious day. Even without us worrying about it.

We are now in a small hotel in the beautiful Roman village of Molinaseca. We had some tapas at the adjacent bar and Clare received advice on her knee from a local who has done the Camino many times. This included an ice pack and wrap for her knee. Now hitting the hay for another day tomorrow. I'm sure the sun is going to come up here just like back at home. Peace ✌️