Why did you decide to do the Camino? It is a common question heard along the Way. Before leaving home it was a question that I had prepared for even if I didn't have a deep answer. Why we do things is a very important question. Frequently I torment our kids with this question but I consider it essential. Why are you doing that? Why do you want to do that?
Why did I do the Camino de Santiago? I did it because Amy wanted to do it. I wanted to be a part of the experience. I figured that I would have a lot of time along the way to figure out why I was there. The office of Peregrinos keeps detailed statistics of why pilgrims make their way to Santiago. Most are for religious or cultural reasons. Mine were a combination. But these statistics are derived from checkboxes, not open ended questions or long conversations over a meal or bottle of wine. Several times we heard of ill or deceased relatives or friends as the reason behind a Camino. Sometimes it was in response to a life changing situation. Some wanted to quit smoking and others just wanted a challenge.
Why make a pilgrimage for someone ill? Why make one for someone deceased? Perhaps we are seeking a thin place so that our voice or intentions are heard. I don't believe that thin places only exist in Cathedrals. The Cliffs of Moher are one of those places for me but the power of the millions before us on the Camino and the hundreds that traveled with us create something palpable. The Way feels like a thin place in itself. I credit Sue Hunter with putting this concept of thin places into my ear. Read more below.
One of those precise places was behind the statue of St. James where we placed our hands on his shoulders. I've included a picture from the front. No pictures were allowed from behind. Those are Clare's hands on his shoulders as he looks down on the Cathedral altar.
To gain perspective of how many people have come before us look at how worn the stairs are leading down from the statue.
As I talked with other pilgrims along the Camino I realized that I was walking walking for two reasons. First, in honor of my mother Peg who passed away earlier this year and her unconditional love and incredible faith. She knew nothing of the Camino but she would have loved it. She would have been everyone's best friend. Most of you reading this likely remember her as a frail elderly woman but I remember her as being strong and fearless and my protector. Second, for the continued healing of my best buddy Mike. I thought of him so many times along the Way because we've had so many similar adventures together. The rhythm of the Camino is just like the randonneuring that we do by bicycle. Searching for food, finding incredible coffees in the smallest of villages, collapsing exhausted into bed so grateful for a horizontal position of repose and a roof over our heads. These were the two stones that I carried up to pinnacle of the Camino, the Cruz de Ferro, Peg and Mike.
I also used my thin place time to pray for special intentions sent to us from friends and family. You don't need a thin place for prayer, but it surely doesn't hurt. Some people are on the Camino because they have gone through turmoil. Death of a loved one or perhaps a divorce. Our buddy Jonathan was carrying some of his mother's ashes. She died at a young age. He was such a presence. He finished a day behind us carrying loaves of bread for the French family of 8 who came in with him.
Others are there to change their lives. Many had quit their jobs. Some wind up staying. I don't feel that we were looking to change our lives although perhaps our trajectory has been altered. Some peregrinos find the Camino so compelling that they never leave it. We are already on a flight home.
The Camino is said to return us to childhood. We become more open, less judgmental and just want to help the others around us. If that is the lasting message that one gets from the Camino then I think everyone should do it. We made so many new friends. Collecting friends and experiences builds the greatest fortune.
We learned about Spain, ourselves and each other. I learned that "venga" and "vale" can be used to mean just about anything and are sprinkled liberally through every conversation. I learned that Amy can accomplish anything that she sets her mind to (although I kind of knew that already). Now I just have proof. I learned that Clare is tough as nails and speaks wonderful Spanish with a perfect Castellano accent! Venga!! It's so rewarding to see Amy train for months and then complete the Camino strongly and to see all of Clare's hard work learning Spanish pay off for her and us. Our Camino would not have been as meaningful without her and her translation, which allowed us to connect with so many people. We actually communicated with our Italian friends Massimo and Anna through Spanish. Amy and I would say something. Clare would translate into Spanish then Anna would translate back to Italian! I learned that I love northern Spain and walking. Venga!!
I have a strong feeling that we will return. There are so many Caminos. Many Europeans do them in stages. Our friends Max and Gracia did the 800k of the Camino Frances in three stages over three years. The most popular pilgrimage is from Sarria to Santiago and at 113 k can easily be accomplished in a week. I know some of you reading this now are feeling a bit tempted. Go with it. You won't regret it. Trust me, I'm a doctor.
The stairs...
ReplyDeleteI know...
DeleteVery beauty. Laura and I will do this in a few.
ReplyDeleteHit me up for some info before leaving.
DeleteGreat stuff, Cap'n
ReplyDeleteThanks Dan. Congrats on your GSR. It's a great ride but a tough one indeed. I love the Aussies!
DeleteLoved reading about your motivations for El Camino. As for the Castellano accent, well, you can't have everything!
ReplyDeleteThanks MG. Coffee on!
DeleteThank You for allowing me to follow vicariously. This post was incredible. Any sort of extended journey allows the flow of thoughts as to why we do, and who we are.
DeleteGracias, and you have hit the nail on the head. We all need time to turn inside and have a look around in there.
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