Hot Enough to Melt a Glacier - Glacier 1300k

Climate change has the world’s glaciers receding and the battle between fire and ice was on full display during the 2024 edition of the Seattle International Randonneurs’ (SIR) Glacier 1300k.  The event was dominated by a heatwave gripping the Pacific Northwest. On the morning of the ride start, I received a notification from the NYT bearing an unwelcome title, Pacific Northwest Braces for a Blistering Heat Wave Over the Weekend.  Yikes, now what was that refund policy...

The ride title is taken from the finish destination, Whitefish Montana which serves as the gateway to Glacier National Park. It also serves as a reminder of how much ice would be required to prevent riders from spontaneous combustion, a glacier’s worth.  Four of the five days saw temperatures over 100 degrees.  Ice socks were de rigueur.  Insulated bottles, mandatory.  Every bit of exposed skin required a covering.  When the garmin reads 122 degrees, you are in survival mode.

I first heard about the Glacier ride held as a point to point 1000k run by the Oregon Randonneurs in 2007. I've been interested in it ever since.  SIR has also run the Glacier ride as a 1000k but this was the first time it was offered as a 1300k. The ride actually weighed in at 1389k but who's counting.  This would be my first point to point Grand Randonnée.  The format is uncommon as it produces logistical challenges.  Only a small backpack could be transported in the drop bag vehicle.  How do you get a bike box from the start to the finish? Fortunately, Amtrak runs from Whitefish back to Seattle, so that was an option to return rider and machine to the start. I chose to mail my bike using Bikeflights to the start and then had Glacier Cyclery in Whitefish do the same, sending it back to my house after the finish.  My part was just to get the bike from Seattle to Whitefish on time.  I flew from Whitefish back to Charlotte after the ride.  Logistics can be sorted.

Course Map SIR's Glacier 1300k 2024

SIR is blessed with a stockpile of experienced volunteers and it shows during their events. They countered the heatwave with roving support and added manned stops identified by the pre-riders, who also had to deal with hot conditions. They even handled a late first day rerouting due to an unexpected pass closure with aplomb.  The only issue with the rerouting was that day one was now 426k instead of 347k, so the start was moved to 4am and the riders were sent off into the dark. 

The day one re-route took the course south and to the west of Mt. St. Helens and by the time we hit Lane Road up and over Green Mt., I almost erupted. Green Mountain is a punchy climb at 2.9k averaging 9.1% but with many steeper grades suitable for walking.  Once the course hit Longview we turned to the southeast and into Gifford Pinchot National Forest.  The hour was getting late and no services were open.  Enter volunteer Peg Miller who had set up her camper oasis next to the course in Cougar WA.

Peg offered seating, hot and cold snacks and lively converstaion.  It was a much needed refueling before tackling Oldman Pass.  I thanked Peg for her time and her effort in marking this as a SAG stop. 
She had multiple traffic cones along the road with blinking Christmas lights.  I said it was a welcome sight and impossible to miss.  Everyone’s attention turned to a rider (name withheld to protect the guilty) who had just ridden by without stopping and had to be chased down, awkward, lol. Eventually, I reached the overnight in Carson after one complete revolution of the Earth.  24hrs is a long time to be on the bike! Despite the grueling first day, an early alarm was set as day two was expecting a high temperature of 107 degrees. The more riding that could be done early, the better.

When I was first reviewing the course with someone familiar with the area, day two was highlighted.  I was told that the prevailing winds up the Columbia River Gorge would likely produce one of the fastest 200ks that I had ever ridden.  Unfortunately, the god of wind decided that morning to be a bit of a contrarian and slam us with an all day block headwind.  The headwind in combination with the high temperatures produced one of the unholiest riding days that I have ever experienced.
 

The Columbia River Gorge is beautiful, but NOT shady.  For the love of God, would someone please plant a tree?  I was creeping into the blowing furnace and then there it was, a tree.  Not exactly what we would call a tree back in NC but still a live plant with leaves providing a bit of shade next to the road.  I stopped and sat down in the shade.  I was joined shortly by Karel Stroethoff.  Karel decided it was time for a ditch nap and I didn’t take much convincing to join him.  A few minutes later we were awakened by a concerned passing motorist who had stopped to check on us.  We were fine, weren’t we?  The driver was not convinced and would not leave until we took a few bottles of water from him.  When I remounted my bike I saw that the temperature was the proverbial 99 degrees in the shade! We received some much needed roving support that day from volunteers and from good samaritans.  One guy found me leaning over my bars and pulled over just to let me sit in his car for 10 minutes while he directed all air conditioner vents my way.  It was definitely an epic day, and I don’t use that term lightly. I bought a bag of ice at every stop, a pattern that would continue for the rest of the event.  I used an old tube sock to fill with ice and then drape around my neck. 

Others used an ice filled zip lock bag with a few holes packed under their jersey in the upper back. I wore the Voler arm and leg sleeves and they worked flawlessly.  Despite the biblical conditions, I did not suffer a single mm of sunburn. Mercifully, the sun gave way to a beautiful blood moon.  I witnessed the red moonrise directly over the Columbia River as I was nearing the overnight in Umatilla, Oregon.  It was spectacular. Sadly, I did not have the energy to stop for a picture.  Day three was predicting even higher temperatures! What planet is this? Oh well, the earlier to bed the earlier to rise and to beat some of the heat.

On day three we left behind the Columbia River to continue its battle with the formidable sun.  

We ventured into the rolling wheat-lands of eastern Oregon.  We rode through miles of golden wheat fields swaying in the breeze, and this time the wind direction was working with us. Massive open grain piles stood under shoots.  The open piles are replacing the antiquated grain elevators due to lesser regulations, larger capacities and lower cost. 

This confirmed for me that no rain would be encountered. Who would leave millions of pounds of wheat out in the open if rain was coming. Second breakfast was a hearty homemade sandwich on a bench outside the grocery in Athena.  I multitasked filling all necessary ice holding devices. We would for the first time be turning towards the north and heading across eastern Oregon, with expected highs well above 100 again. Many of the locals in the small towns that dotted the farmlands were curious about our ride.  After all, what kind of mad people would be out riding bikes in this heat.  These locals were genuinely concerned about us and often offered help or advice.  The more desolate the location, the more involved people are with the safety of others.  I call this the opposite of the “bystander effect”.  If they might be our only chance for assistance, they don’t hesitate to offer.  

In Dayton I stopped at the local Mercantile hoping to secure a “Subway” sandwich as they had the classic sign outside.  I couldn’t find the Subway but what I did find was even better.  The Subway had closed but the mercantile had taken over that shell and was serving made to order sandwiches.  Mine was made by a local high school senior who peppered me with questions about our event.  I told him we were headed for Colfax for the night. He said that wasn’t too bad since it was only about an hour away.  I reminded him that I was pedaling a bicycle and 100k was difficult to cover in an hour.  We laughed and I went on my way.  As I rode down main street I noticed giant banners honoring the local high school seniors.  There featured on one banner hanging from a light post was the kid that just made my sandwich! I was only there for five minutes and I already knew someone.

The wind continued to push us to the northeast and eventually across the Snake River.  SIR had a support station set up near some silos next to the Snake River crossing.  It was a beautiful sight, backlit by a ruby twilight.  I had a ginger ale, chips, a pickle and a pickle shot and began the lumpy bits up to Colfax. I ended Day 3 in Colfax gobbling watermelon and cantaloupe in the big conference room serving as command central.  The food and drink was plentiful and the varied choices much appreciated.

Highlighting Day 4 would be a 103k segment on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes, a well- maintained paved rail trail spanning the panhandle of Northern Idaho.  Much of the trail follows the Coeur d’Alene River and the shoreline of Lake Coeur d’Alene. I’ve never seen a moose on a brevet probably because they don’t know how to ride bikes, but I spotted three along this segment of trail.

 

Even though the trail was very enjoyable, it still was hot and many sections were exposed. I must have gotten dehydrated moose watching because by the time we exited the trail in Wallace, I had lost all power in the engine room. I was also feeling a bit woozy.  Something was definitely wrong and yet there was still 100k more riding with two significant passes before reaching the overnight in Thompson Falls, Montana. I took an extended break in Wallace with a sit down dinner at the Chalkboard with Greg Cardell. Greg carried on and I stayed behind resting further at a gas station. I resupplied with ice under a giant “Kratom Sold Here” sign. 

Satellite trackers were mandatory for this ride. Everyone could see anyone’s position. It was around this time that I began receiving texts of encouragement. I’m sure friends were concerned that I was the lanterne rouge by over an hour and still with a tough 100k before sleep. The messages really picked up my deflated spirit. I drank 4 bottles of Pedialyte, ate a few Tums and eventually set off to tackle Dobson (9.6k, 445m) and Thompson (20k, 738m) passes. I was pleased to make it up and over Dobson pass still in the twilight but Thompson would be done in the dark. Thompson Pass was longer and more difficult but I haven’t met a grade that I couldn’t walk. Eventually, I reached the top and began the long dark descent into Thompson Falls. Animals were everywhere! I saw my fourth moose for the day,and this time it was on the road! I went around the moose and not a mile later a bobcat darted into the road and then did a 180 right back to where it had come from. I also saw owls and herds of deer. I heard other animals scurrying in the rocks and I did my best to scurry into my cabin at Thompson Falls just before 2:30 am. Plans had already been made for a 7am breakfast at Minnie’s Montana Cafe.

The breakfast did not disappoint. We left Thompson Falls with fuel gauges pegged way past full.  On the final day I had a posse. Ian Hands, Chris Graham, John Morris and Charlie Martin would not let me out of their sight. Ian’s job was to pull across the flats and to periodically spritz me with a mister bottle held behind his back.

Charlie accepted the position of climbing sherpa, staying with me on all climbs despite the fact that he could have done them much quicker without his charge. As the day was heating up Charlie mentioned that it would be a good idea if he could bomb me with cold water balloons periodically. I thought that was something I hadn’t seen or experienced on a brevet but yeah, I agreed that would be good. It wasn’t just some pipe dream for Charlie mentioned as a vague possibility never to be acted upon. For Charlie, this became a mission. In an amazing moment of synchronicity at our next convenience store stop he found the grail. The grail of water balloon filling efficiency that is. I didn’t even know such things existed but basically 20 water balloons can be prepared simultaneously with one attachment to a hose or sink and then the balloons are self sealed with small rubber bands as they are pulled off their stems. Charlie then packed balloons into his feed bags with ice and the extras into his tail bag. The supply of 60 balloons would last him until the end of the ride. While not every balloon reached its target or exploded on impact, enough did their intended job to keep our engines running cool until the finish in Whitefish. 

Another late change made to the course at the suggestion of the pre-riders was to get riders off of hwy 93 as much as possible towards the end of the course and this was accomplished with a series of side roads and bicycle paths. This change was much appreciated by the riders and by the pick-up drivers of Montana who don’t seem to enjoy seeing bicycles on the roadway.

We finished before sunset and began the important task of the telling of tall tales. There was a common room for napping and showers and we celebrated with beers and burgers. As the celebration was winding down, the lanterne rouge, Pierre Moreels, rolled in to cheers from the remaining crowd. Like everyone else, Pierre had his finishing medal presented by Miss Adrian Hands. It was an enjoyable moment for me since I had shared many kilometers with Pierre and even though he hasn’t completed a PBP with a time of 88:55 or greater, he rides with the spirit of Adrian Hands for certain.

A huge shout out to the volunteers who made this event possible: Rose Cox, Greg Cox, Mark Thomas, Peg Miller, Jeanene Williams, Jan Acuff, Carl and Susan Lind, Andy Sapuntzakis, Elizabeth Mills, Doug McLerran, Keith Moore, Matt Close, Bob Brudvik and John Morris.

Captions:

• John Morris with Mount Rainier in the sun, D1.
• Peg Miller's camper sag in Cougar, D1.
• Karel Stroethoff heading east in the Columbia River Gorge, D2
• Jasmine Wu, James Porter and Karel Stroethoff enjoy a much needed roving resupply provided by volunteers Carl and Susan Lind, D2.
• Ice sockin', D2.
• Osprey with fish takeout as the sun rises on a very hot day 3 ride up the Columbia.
• Karel Stroethoff single speeds into the rolling waves of amber grain.
• Snake River crossing, Evel Knievel would be proud.
• SIR refuel stop on the bank of the Snake River as the sun sets on D3.
• Phil Jones heads for the Idaho border, day 4. (horiz)
• Pierre Moreels enjoys the view from the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes.
• First moose sighting, Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes.
• Icing down the engines before tackling Dobson Pass.
• Breakfast at Minnie's Montana Cafe did not disappoint.
• Chris Graham and Ian Hands flying the colors just past Lonepine Montana, day 5.
• Charlie Martin daydreaming about water balloons in Montana, day 5.
• The lanterne rouge, Pierre Moreels receives his medal from Miss Adrian Hands.Greg and Rose Cox providing roving support on D3. They also graciously hosted me prior to the ride which was very generous of them. Merci!