I was happily blogging in my lower bunk on the third floor when my cross bunkmate Javi from France seemed in distress. He had arrived much earlier than us and had been walking around the village. NOTHING was open. "What are you planning to eat tonight?" My blank stare informed Javi that I didn't have a plan. We assembled in the kitchen and there were the four of us, plus Carmelo. I hadn't seen Carmelo before but he was asking if we needed wine. Carmelo departed and then quickly returned with eggs from his father's chickens, 2 beautiful homegrown tomatoes and a bottle of red wine from the Navarre region. But how? Turns out Carmelo lives in the village and looks after the Albergue when his brother who owns it is away. We scavenged through our packs and took inventory. Pasta and red sauce with tomato and cheese omelettes would be the menu. Two Italians came down and waited for us to cook our pasta. I was in charge of the omelettes. The pressure was on. Preparing pasta with Italians looking on and making an omelette for a Frenchman requires focus! The meal turned out fabulously and the Italians were great fun over dinner. Carmelo was also quite engaging and his English was perfecto. He invited Clare to come back for a visit if she returns to Soria which is not far away.
We marched straight down the hill with Venus and a thin crescent moon looking on. This first section was 8 miles without services. Despite the barebones breakfast of toast packets and an orange we made it without incident. The weather was nice but we could definitely feel the sun turning up the thermostat.
By the time we hit San Sol we were sagging. I searched for the town fountain behind the farmacia but it was under repair. Clare was window shopping at the farmacia and picked out a stylish new knee brace. She reports it feels much better. With the new brace still in its box our Italian friends called out from an Albergue. "Come see!" They were having bocadillos and soaking their feet in a cool pool of water. It turns out that if you purchased something at the bar you could soak your feet in the cooling waters. We joined them!
The cooling water and food propped up our spirits but our final section of the day was up and down and quite challenging. We did see our first donkey of the Camino and I questioned its masters extensively. They had found Lola and were heading against the current of the Way returning to Switzerland. You heard that right. The burro's name is LOLA! I'm still in the process of reading Travels with My Donkey by Tim Moore, a hilarious recounting of one man's Camino adventure with his Burro!
Next we encountered a herd of sheep traversing the Camino. The dogs were working overtime to try and keep them out of the adjacent vineyard. With three dogs and 200 sheep some grapes would be collateral damage. Eventually the sheep were on their way and so were we.
We climbed the final hill into our sleep stop with Ana and Massimo our amicos italianos. The Albergue was locked and no one was answering the bell. A quick phone call found the operator running an errand so we headed into the square for a beer and a rest while we awaited her return. Since I treated at the café Ana and Massimo would prepare dinner. Really, that's fair? Oh well, don't try to argue with Italianos. We headed back to the now open Izar Albergue with our provisions. We showered, washed our clothes in a washing machine and were fed by a couple of Italians who work in the catering business. Life is good. The Camino provides.
