Back-to-back 30k stages have broken us. We are breaking down physically and mentally. We have covered over 200k in just over a week. For the imperially inclined we stand 131 miles into our 490 mile trek. We have bitten off more than we can chew. There is a reason that the guide books recommend 31-33 stages and not 27. It's very difficult to make up time by foot with a pack on your back. You can increase your speed but that increases the pounding on your feet. Oh how the dogs are barking. Last night I pushed a needle and thread through Amy's heel blister and then tied a square knot. That's a first.
I didn't blog last night for stage 7 because I have a rule. If I don't have time to wash clothes then I don't blog. We had a lively dinner of pasta and peppers cooked by Massimo. Cheese, bread, salad and two bottles of local wine completed the menu. The wine could be acquired at the Albergue for €3/bottle. This wine is made from the grapes that we were walking past most of the day as we are now well into the region of la Rioja. This was another new age Albergue with door beads, a STRONG aroma of incense and the monk chanting alarm. That alarm came one hour later as we fell back an hour.
I really enjoyed walking through Logroño which we did for nearly 6 miles. We entered the city past garden plots and then a winding cypress-lined path. The city was lively, perhaps because it was Saturday. We stopped by the Cathedral prominently featuring St. James the Moor slayer on a statue above the main entrance.
We passed through a busy market and then stopped for some pintxos. The path continued for miles on the western side of the city as it wound through a very long park and out to a lake and picnic area. This greenway was well used with people walking and biking and jogging around the shuffling pilgrims. We stopped at the edge of the lake and watched some small children feeding a swan who was completely on land. I had my camera on video for the impeding swan attack but it never came. Here we rejoined Ana and Massimo and took a break for espresso in the next town. The bar was empty because everyone was glued to a Real Madrid match being shown on the other side of the room. The seating was for "Socios" only but they allowed the weary peregrinos a chair. It was a true scene of Spanish life in a small city. Life pauses for soccer. Peregrinos are treated with kindness.
As I laid in bed last night I asked myself how I could walk another 30k today. Those questions continued all day long but those 30k were ticked off. Tonight we are in Santo Domingo in an Albergue founded in 1011. We're not the first pilgrims to stay here. For the first time we are all in top bunks. There are 26 beds in our room. All are full. We've only spilled over into a second room but in high season this place can bed more than 200 peregrinos. Fortunately exhaustion is our ally, and ear plugs. Buen Camino!
Beach Boys: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=X1Sv0f1AwZ0
ReplyDeleteExactly
DeleteI hope the feet feel better soon. I admire your perseverance and enjoy keeping up with the posts. Buen camino!
ReplyDeleteThanks MG!
DeleteHang in there bro!
ReplyDeleteWe will, or we'll start cheating. I'm so jealous of the all the bicycles going by.
Deletethe donkeys may start looking irresistible...
DeleteI'm thinking I don't need to put this on my bucket list. Your blogs are close enough for me. thanks for taking us on this journey with you!
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