Skip to main content

We've entered the whine region.

Back-to-back 30k stages have broken us. We are breaking down physically and mentally. We have covered over 200k in just over a week. For the imperially inclined we stand 131 miles into our 490 mile trek. We have bitten off more than we can chew. There is a reason that the guide books recommend 31-33 stages and not 27. It's very difficult to make up time by foot with a pack on your back. You can increase your speed but that increases the pounding on your feet. Oh how the dogs are barking. Last night I pushed a needle and thread through Amy's heel blister and then tied a square knot. That's a first.


I didn't blog last night for stage 7 because I have a rule. If I don't have time to wash clothes then I don't blog. We had a lively dinner of pasta and peppers cooked by Massimo. Cheese, bread, salad and two bottles of local wine completed the menu. The wine could be acquired at the Albergue for €3/bottle. This wine is made from the grapes that we were walking past most of the day as we are now well into the region of la Rioja. This was another new age Albergue with door beads, a STRONG aroma of incense and the monk chanting alarm. That alarm came one hour later as we fell back an hour.


I really enjoyed walking through Logroño which we did for nearly 6 miles. We entered the city past garden plots and then a winding cypress-lined path. The city was lively, perhaps because it was Saturday. We stopped by the Cathedral prominently featuring St. James the Moor slayer on a statue above the main entrance.


We passed through a busy market and then stopped for some pintxos. The path continued for miles on the western side of the city as it wound through a very long park and out to a lake and picnic area. This greenway was well used with people walking and biking and jogging around the shuffling pilgrims. We stopped at the edge of the lake and watched some small children feeding a swan who was completely on land. I had my camera on video for the impeding swan attack but it never came. Here we rejoined Ana and Massimo and took a break for espresso in the next town. The bar was empty because everyone was glued to a Real Madrid match being shown on the other side of the room. The seating was for "Socios" only but they allowed the weary peregrinos a chair. It was a true scene of Spanish life in a small city. Life pauses for soccer. Peregrinos are treated with kindness.


As I laid in bed last night I asked myself how I could walk another 30k today. Those questions continued all day long but those 30k were ticked off. Tonight we are in Santo Domingo in an Albergue founded in 1011. We're not the first pilgrims to stay here. For the first time we are all in top bunks. There are 26 beds in our room. All are full. We've only spilled over into a second room but in high season this place can bed more than 200 peregrinos. Fortunately exhaustion is our ally, and ear plugs. Buen Camino!



Comments

  1. Beach Boys: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=X1Sv0f1AwZ0

    ReplyDelete
  2. I hope the feet feel better soon. I admire your perseverance and enjoy keeping up with the posts. Buen camino!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Replies
    1. We will, or we'll start cheating. I'm so jealous of the all the bicycles going by.

      Delete
    2. the donkeys may start looking irresistible...

      Delete
  4. I'm thinking I don't need to put this on my bucket list. Your blogs are close enough for me. thanks for taking us on this journey with you!

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Mike Dayton's Back

I can't tell you how many miles I've spent following those broad shoulders.  For nearly every challenging ride that I've done over the past 15 years there has been one constant, sucking Dayton's wheel.  He's got a big motor and pushes through the wind.  I tell jokes and keep us on course.  We're a tandem team that forgot to fasten the couplers. In February 2016 that changed in the time of a pedal stroke.  While riding a 200k permanent midday in Johnston County four NC randonneurs were plowed down by a 1992 Crown Victoria.  Mike Dayton hit the windshield and sustained life changing injuries.  He spent time in a coma and was ventilator dependent for a week.  His recovery continues today and the reminders are all around in his house.  Dots and a stick are taped to the walls and lines are on the floor for balancing and vision exercises.  He now wears corrective glasses so that he doesn't see two of everything.  He and Kelly have bee...

Return to the Nebraska Sandhills 1000k

A few days before the start of the Sandhills 1000k I checked my iPhone weather for Broken Bow Nebraska. The start day would be hot, near 90. The finish day would be cooler. The middle day was forecast for wind. That’s it. Just a wind symbol. If you ever ride in Nebraska and see that symbol, watch out.  That's Rando! photo, Denise Giffin This was the second edition of the Nebraska Sandhills 1000k. I rode the first edition in 2016 and loved it so much that I blogged about the ride and then that was picked up for a story in American Randonneur. The publicity did not translate to oversubscription. 8 riders attended the 2016 ride and 7 toed the line for 2018. The veterans included myself, the RBA host, Spencer Klaassen and homegrown cornhusker Rodney Geisert. The always popular Rick Blacker flew in from Olympia WA. Brian Feinberg from SFR came based on a suggestion from Robert Sexton who had thoroughly enjoyed the 2016 edition. Bill Giffin took a break from his nearby ...

Nebraska Sandhills 1000k

Day 2 after dropping down from Piney Ridge and the Nebraska National Forest "Pack an extra bottle of water, and say your prayers" was the advice from our waitress as we enquired about the section that lay ahead in the Sandhills traveling north to Valentine, NE.   As we finished off our burgers at Paul's Liquor and Food in Mullen NE, an interested patron pointed out that we could always drink from the stock pumps. He has all his life and he's just fine.    Oasis in Mullen These windmill pumps supply thirsty cattle with a cool endless stream of water throughout the Sandhills.  Just a note of caution, collect the water as it comes out of the pipe.  Don't drink from the trough or pool itself. Stock Pump Nebraska is known for corn and beef cattle but it might as well be recognized for great cycling.   RBA Spencer Klaassen mapped out and guided us through a 1,000k adventure that highlighted the Sandhills but included varied terrai...

Mac and Cheese 1200k 2018

Coal fired ship meet fixed gear randonneur.  http://www.ssbadger.com/about/history/ If you ever find yourself in Manistique in the Upper Peninsula at Marley's Bar and Grill and the special is a walleye sandwich, get it.  This was the exact situation that we found ourselves shortly before midnight on day 2 of the inaugural Mac and Cheese 1200.  My riding buddies Spencer Klaassen, Mark Thomas and Ian Hands and I went all in on the walleye special, and we did not regret it. The Mac and Cheese was a massive cooperative undertaking of the Great Lakes Randonneurs and the Detroit Randonneurs, led respectively by Michele Brougher and Jeremy Gray.  Their task seemed daunting but they handled the chaos with aplomb.  The first interesting task was to move most of the 63 riders across 50 miles of Lake Michigan from the finish town of Manitowoc, WI to the ride start in Ludington, MI.  Enter the Badger!  The Badger is a coal fired ferry that was up to the fo...
My welcome to Ireland Míle Fáilte 2018 Míle Fáilte translates from Irish into a "thousand welcomes."  It might as well mean a million welcomes! The Irish are the most welcoming people that I've ever encountered but we weren't there for a thousand welcomes, we were there for even more. We were there for 1,200 welcoming kilometers of Irish southwest countryside or should I say 1236 to be precise.  When things were going well we were enjoying the 2018 Míle Fáilte.  When we were suffering it was simply the MF1200. 2018 full course 1,236 km 11,205 m / 768miles 36,753' Every ride has its challenges. We knew about the hills from the course profile and we had heard about the rough road surfaces and the midge swarms but there was no thought given to dealing with record high temperatures.  They hardly sell sunscreen in Ireland.  The Irish claim to have thrown out more sunscreen than they've ever used.  My arms are still peeling. This was the se...