Italy 2017

Getting the immediate family all in one place happens less and less frequently as our kids become busier. This year our opportunity occurred at the end of July. Patrick had just finished with a study abroad program in Soria, Spain. Clare thouroughly enjoyed two sessions as a camp counselor at Camp Celo and would have stayed for a third had it not conflicted with our family vacation. Abbey had just returned from a summer introduction to medicine program at the University of Vermont. We flew in and out of Venice but the bulk of the trip was spent hiking in the Dolomites. Anna and Max who we had met last fall on the Camino helped with logistics since they lived nearby.

On our first day we fought off the urge for sleep and travelled to Padua to visit the Scrovegni Chapel. This chapel is adorned with Giotto's frescoed masterwork and is considered to be one of the great works of Western art. Abbey had pushed for this visit since Giotto's work had caught her interest in Mrs. Haun's Art History class. The chapel was commissioned by Enrico Scrovegni to atone his family's sins of usery. I'm not sure if it was enough but no expense was spared.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrovegni_Chapel

The Lamentation of Christ, Giotto 1305

We slept well after a full day with Max and Anna punctuated by a 5 course Italian feast on a veranda in the countryside overlooking the hills of northern Italy with the Dolomites looming in the distance.

The next day we bid ciao to Max as he collected our non-essential hiking luggage. A two hour bus ride and we found ourselves in Cortina where our hike would begin. Cortina is a spectacularly beautiful ski town guarded by craggy peaks on all sides. A ski jump in need of repair and an Olympic skating rink remind visitors that the town hosted the 1956 Winter Olympics. We found our way to our overnight lodging and met up with Ian Spare who would serve as our guide for the 7 day trek to Bolzano. Ian runs a outdoor guiding service based out of Switzerland but the Dolomite trek happens to be one of his favorites. Our trip basically followed the description on his website.

https://www.swissmountainleader.com/trekking/italian-dolomites-trekking/

Our typical day would include hiking 6-8 hours with a short but scenic lunch break. We were happy to take off our packs in the evening and to be introduced to our beds each night. Most of the lodging was at refugios high in the Dolomites, but this is after all Italy, and fabulous and abundant food was the norm and even the smallest and most remote lodging had a world class Espresso machine!

The Trek

Day 1 Cortina to Croda da Lago

Off from Cortina.

It always feels so good to take those few first steps of a long journey. We had been planning this trip for nearly a year (with Ian's help of course) but you get my drift. We were here and it was happening. We stopped in town and topped off our packs with lunch for the day. The first day was maybe 10 miles but we did gain 1,000 meters. We crossed a few streets, a bridge and were quickly into an alpine forest. There was quite a bit of up but we were fresh. We had some nice views across the valley where Cortina is situated. We were looking to the west but heading east. Our goal for the evening was the refugio Croda da Lago. As we approached the refugio we decided to take the scenic long way around the lake rather than the 100 yrd straight-line to the finish. It was beautiful hiking along the edge of the lake and I lingered taking pictures as my crew stepped up onto the deck of the refugio. That is when I heard the first screams of excitement! I hustled to see the cause of the commotion and it turned out to be a freak encounter with our good friend and neighbor from Asheville, Sarah Abernethy! Sarah was just finishing roughly the same hike that we were embarking upon but in the opposite direction. It truly is a small world!

Well hey there neighbor! photo Ian Spare

Refugio Croda da Lago

A well deserved reward on the deck at Croda da Lago.

Pausing at da Lago photo Ian Spare

They take their grappe seriously at Refugio Croda da Lago.

Day 2 Croda da Lago to Cinque Torri

We readied our gear and applied sunscreen on the deck. I'm pretty certain that we were the last to leave, but as you can see from the picture below, the deck held a certain appeal. Eventually we overcame gravity and became objects in motion working our way steadily uphill along the western wall of the Croda. Cortina was far below over our left shoulder. We reached a pass that spilled us into a sea of grassy high rolling meadow. We saw our first marmots of the trip and even when out of sight we were escorted by their serenading whistles. A herd of wild donkey's watched from the ridge indifferent to our picture taking. There was still a high vertical wall to our right and here is where we encountered our first climbers. The Dolomites are a popular destination for climbing especially because of the extensive network of via ferrata.

http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/destinations/europe/italy/climbing-the-dolomites-via-ferrata/

The valley turned upward and sent us over another pass where a cool wind met us head-on. The grass gave way to rocks and we made our way down a steep hillside to Passo Giau. Lycra and leather clad cyclists were summiting the pass from both directions. The Passo Giau is commonly featured in the Giro d'Italia as it was this year during the queen stage. A common feature of our trek was hiking down to the same passes to which the cyclists were ascending. We stopped for a lunch break at a roadside restaurant at Passo Giau and then began the traverse and ascent to the ridiculously perched Refugio Nuvalau. It was not our target for the night but one that must be seen, preferably from the deck with a refreshing beverage in hand. The rifugio makes quite an impression with its location and we took a short break before the final k down to our stop for the night at Rigugio Scoiattoli at Cinque Torri, the five towers. Two nights earlier in Cortina as we walked to dinner we had looked far into the distance as Ian ointed out the unmistakable silhouette of Cinque Torri. It felt rewarding to now be there simply by putting one foot in front of another over and over again. Just outside our door we explored this Italian stronghold during WWI which included an extensive series of bunkers, tunnels and stairs.

Sunscreen application and foot prep nearly complete.

Starting the day with elevation gain.

Cortina just out of view over our left shoulders. It would not be the last time we saw it though.

Into the high green valley with marmots, foxes and donkeys.

Hiking down to Passo Giau

Passo Giau, a hopping spot. You can see the tiny outline of a building just to the right of the bottom left hand corner of the sign. That is our next destination!

Hiking up to the precariously perched Rifugio Nuvolau

Location, location, location - Rifugio Nuvolau 2573m

Nice digs for the night at Cinque Torri just 1k from Nuvolau and 200m below.

Italian positions during WWI. Look closely for the stairs, walkways and bunkers. Rifugio Sciattoli is that small building just to the left of center.

Quiet time during the setting of the sun at Cinque Torri.

Day 3 Cinque Torri to Lagazuoi

It was a beautiful clear day as we set out from Cinque Torri. The only visible clouds were clinging to mountain tops like toupees. We descended down along the alta via to Pass Falzarego. We crossed the road and were immediately on our way up. An hour later and we were back above tree line. We passed through our first small tunnel but it would not be our last. We would spend the better part of the following morning in tunnels. The higher we climbed, the more the clouds gathered. We crossed a pass and found ourselves in a rock strewn high valley with constant left to right cloud motion. It was time for lunch. With our bellies temporarily quieted we set off for our Refugio Lagazuoi. It was further than we thought and at this point we decided to try off piste. At one point we briefly lost Patrick who had decided to explore a cave. Clare did the same 15 minutes later. We were going up and up and up! A flock of sheep were grazing but paid us little attention. After a stiff climb to the ridge we realized that we weren't even on the final ridge yet! We still had to go down before the final unrelenting switchbacks to the Refugio. It's safe to say that when we finally reached the festive deck, refreshments were in order. I love the whole deck scene at the refugios. The scenery is hypnotizing and the atmosphere lively. The snacks and drinks are molto bene! We're in Italy!! Va bene!!

Clouds love mountains.

Refugio Scoiattoli in the morning.

A boy and his rock.

Yes, we hiked up that!

What is your favorite color?

Snape's favorite potion ingredient Wolfsbane.

Hiking up to the next to last ridge!

Some of the path is slow going.

Nirvana at Lagazuoi!

Day 4 Lagazuoi to Arabba

After a fabulous dinner the previous night we spent a good part of the evening on the deck taking pictures of the sunset and clouds. It felt good to have a few layers on and feel the evening breeze. Abbey overheard some folks on the deck planning to catch the sunrise so we made a pact to be up at 5:45. It was worth it! When I stepped into the cool morning just as the sun was rising every valley was densely filled with all the clouds that had settled in for the night. The prior night they were whirling around and obscuring sunsets but now all the clouds were sleeping in and it created perhaps the most spectacular natural sight that I have witnessed. We took loads of pictures from varying angles but I don't feel that we ever quite captured the spectacle. We took a break for a hikers breakfast and readied our packs while our awaiting our helmets. Yes we would need helmets for the first part of the day because we were descending through WWI tunnels for most of the descent back down to Pass di Falzarego. Occasionally we would pop out and eventually we were below the clouds. On our way down we stepped out onto the Martini ledge to have a look at the narrow ledge where 300 Italian soldiers spent two years during WWI. Check link for a fascinating story about the ledge. https://www.ft.com/content/33f43882-48da-11df-8af4-00144feab49a We grabbed a quick snack at Falzrego and then paralleled the road for a bit turning upward past a small shallow lake. At the next pass we ate lunch and then continued a long and rocky traverse. We took a break before a climb into a grassy valley and assessed the "meat still on the bone." A long day loomed but there was one oasis where we could get snacks and a skiwasser. It was about two hours away! After the short but steep pass as the path turned grassy mountain bikers were encountered. Just one here but then three there and all of a sudden they were everywhere. We were in a winter ski resort summer mountain bike mecca! We downed our skiwassers and ice creams and headed out for the final push which according to the sign was 2 hours 45 minutes! It was a pleasant hike through well used trails down to Pass Campolongo. We contemplated taking a bus for the small bit remaining but we had just missed one. We would do it all by foot. We staggered into the hotel at Arabba whipped, just before 6pm. It took everything we had to walk into town for food. We had a less than memorable meal and then limped home pouring into bed for a well earned rest. I did not move until well after sunrise.

Clouds not yet awake at Lagazuoi.

Abbey and I on location for a photo shoot, photo Ian Spare

Helmet up, photo Ian Spare

Oh my darling Clementine, photo Ian Spare

Why go over when you can go through?

Patrick and Clare on Martini Ledge

Amy loved this part, Via Ferrata 1

Finally below the clouds.

The long traverse.

20 minutes from skiwasse!

Day 5 Arabba to Campitello

Arabba is a small town that serves as a base for downhill skiing in the winter and cycling and motorcycling when snow is absent. Since we had hiked down to get to Arabba, we knew there would be a heap of uphill to get back to our intended path for the day, the spectacular View Dal Pan. We gathered our half dried laundry from around the room and set off into town. We stocked up at the local grocer - sandwiches, chocolate and fruit would sustain us through the day. Now to get up to the Viel. How about a ski lift? Isn't that cheating? No it is smart. The gondola was packed with hikers as we ascended 1,000m to the ridge top. It feels so good making smart moves, probably because they are so infrequent. Once unloaded we began a long sideways traverse on the very popular View Dal Pan. The path was smooth and cut into a grassy ridge, always looking at the Marmolade Glacier off to the left. Early morning traffic included a shepherd and his very organized sheep. We passed several refugios, including one with a jazz band. It was all very entertaining. Since the path is accessible by ski lift from either end, it is very popular. Many older hikers were on the trail enjoying their day out. I got the feeling that this was how a Sunday should be spent in Northern Italy. When we reached the far end of the View, we began our journey down. We hiked paralleling some downhill MTB paths and it was fun to watch the freaks do their thing. We passed through some beautiful fields and half way down Abbey and Amy decided to get smart again. They opted for lift down. Ian tried to talk the rest of the crew out of the steep hike down but we would not be swayed. It was actually quite nice through a thick forest along an insane MTB trail. There were tire tracks but I got woozy just thinking about riding this section. Eventually we came into Canazei and hiked through it's lovely small and twisty streets to find Amy and Abbey sitting on a deck having snacks next to the lift. It was time for a skiwasser! We then hiked though the lower town and along a creek through some recreation areas eventually reaching the next village for our sleep stop for the night. Campitello is a lovely little town and our hotel had a real Germanic feel. I could sense that we were getting closer to Bolzano, where roughly a quarter of the population speaks German as their primary language. We had a lovely dinner at a restaurant that also operates a strip joint although it was packed with families, the restaurant that is. We then made it back to our hotel in time to get our dried laundry off of the line before the heavens opened up. Max had told us long before our trip started that we would have good weather in the Dolomites and the rains would only come at night. We laughed but he was absolutely correct. We never even wore our raincoats for a second layer. It only rained at night!

Commence the View Dal Pan!

Even the sheep are under Germanic influence.

There is always one.

This went on for hours!

I love breaks, especially when they have snacks!

I took a lot of pictures. Can you blame me?

The hills are alive, with the sound of music!

Lovely Canazei, just passing through.

Day 6 Campitello to Refugio Bolzano (Schlernhaus) http://www.schlernhaus.it/schlernhaus/en/

For 140 years they have been operating a refugio at Schlernhaus and that was our destination for the night. First we would have to regain the altitude that we lost coming into Campitello. We opted for the ski lift again, as did many hikers. Our day would be long enough without another 1,000m climb. We hiked briskly into town to catch the first gondola up which was usually 9am. 10 minutes later we were stepping out into the cool morning air walking just off the ridge line. We walked by several refugios on our way toward a high gap at Rifugio Alpe de Tires where we stopped for a rest and a snack after a long steep climb. This led to another traverse which featured quite a steep drop off to our left. We climbed one last steep gap and this would spill us into a rocky region that led to our goal for the day, Refugio Bolzano (Schlernhaus).

Impossible to pass up trail donuts

Morning traverse

The cows were unimpressed.

Abbey runs the gauntlet!

On the climb up to Alpe de Tires.

Not Amy's favorite section. One last gap before Rifugio Bozano.

Add caption

Keep to the right please.

Alpe de Tires is that tiny spot in the gap about an hour back on the trail.

Looking back at the long and winding road.

Pack on the run into Shclernhaus

They know how to snack at Schlernhaus!

The dining room at Schlernhaus oozes alpine club

Rifugio Bolzano (Schlernhaus) regards the Rosegarden

Grappa pino mugo.

Pay your bill, have a shot!

When we arrived at Schlernhaus we immediately grabbed a picnic table seat at the our door bar. We dropped our packs and ordered a well deserved round of Ski Wasses. As I was standing at the bar a panicked man came running up to report that his aunt had fallen and injured her face. She had landed on a rock. Someone from the rifugio went with him to help her and 10 minutes later she was retrieved by helicopter. Her pack and her nephew stayed behind and would begin the long walk down to meet her at the hospital. We checked into our accommodations which were in the building adjacent to the main lodge. After a brief unpacking we made our way into the main building which was dripping with 140 years of mountain guide memorabilia. We found our assigned table and sat down for a game of cards. "Would we like a snack?" "Why yes that would be nice." Meats, cheeses and bread came forth. Eventually we would have a hearty dinner and then as custom dictates I paid our bill for lodging and the meals before bed. I guess they have learned through 140 years of experience that it is best to settle up the night before because if one skips out in the morning, tracking them down is nearly impossible. I would learn that a shot of grappa is the reward for settling your bill. I chose the pino mugo grappa and it was quite resinous. I could see from the bottle that they did not spare the pine! Later that evening as we were all doing our own things Abbey had a humorous experience. She went into the second floor bathroom and appropriately locked the door with the skeleton key. After finishing up she was unable to unlock the door and she had no way to contact any of us since we were not in the building. She began knocking on the door and to her surprise, a voice answered from the other side. It was a german girl who spoke perfect English and was willing to help. First she needed to understand why someone was knocking from inside the bathroom! Wasn't it usually the other way around? Abbey explained that the door was locked and while she had the key, she could not get the key to unlock the door. The girl suggested that she slide the key under the door but it wouldn't fit. No problem, throw it out the window and I'll run below and catch it. That is exactly what she did. The German girl ran down stairs, outside and around to find the bathroom window. Abbey leaned out from the second floor and dropped the key. The girl retrieved it and then came upstairs and unlocked the door from the outside. At last Abbey was free! Later that night Abbey inisisted that Clare accompany her to the bathroom. This time they did not lock the door and of course someone walked in on them. We all had a big laugh.

Day 7 Rifugio Bolzano to Vols am Schlern

This was a short day all downhill into a small village where we caught a bus to Bolzano. The bus ride was the scariest part of the entire trek! Narrow curvy blind roads as you can imagine. At one point a truck heading in the opposite direction passed us and I swear I smelled the driver's aftershave! The descent was broken up with a snack at another extremely picturesque restaurant. We passed through many narrow slot canyons guided down by water flowing. Eventually the scenery became less wild and we found ourselves in a well used park and recreation area just before entering the town of Vols am Schlern. Here would catch the bus that would carry us the rest of the way into Bolzano. German is still spoken in much of the city and I was happy to find out that Bolzano is a beer town! Of course we took our meal at a local brewery that night and the beer was outstanding, even for a beer snob from Asheville. http://www.batzen.it/

The trip down

We always have time for a snack

Return to civilization

Bolzano

Reward spaetzle and goulash

Day 8 Train from Bolzano to Venice (via Verona)

We decided to take an afternoon in Verona on our way back from Bolzano by train. We had enough time to tour the coliseum, Juliet's house, walk the ritzy streets of the shopping district and enjoy a fabulous lunch.